Date: 29 Aug 2009
Place: Hong Kong
I wake up early in the morning and see this, while on our way to my bro's apartment. I love Hongkie humor.
10 am, breakfast time at a nearby coffee shop called 新口味茶餐厅. This is what Hongkies normally have for breakfast at those famous 茶餐厅 (coffee shops). They are usually breakfast sets which include bread, ham, eggs and drinks of either milk tea or lemon tea. My breakfast set G consists of an extra bowl of 公仔面 (instant noodles), which in my opinion, was not bad at all. Breakfast sets normally cost HKD 20.
Baby was still in dreamland, so my brother alone came down from his apartment to take us on a sight-seeing/shopping tour to Central.
11 am. My bro's place is very near this spectacular outdoor elevator. I had gone up and down this particular strip countless times during my stay, and boy, was it a tiring work-out! My bro's apartment is located on expensive ground, where only the rich people and/or expats live (if you hadn't noticed yet, my bro's the latter). Welcome to the famous 半山区 :)
This outdoor elevator is spectacular because:
1. It's 800m long, and is the longest outdoor elevator in the world. It would take 20 minutes to go from one end to the other.
2. It connects 半山(Mid Levels) to 中环(Central). There are many stops along the way where you can step out and visit the shops or do whatever. It is a means of transport, one that greatly provides convenience to the people living on the steep slopes. And truly, I am not kidding when I say the slopes are
insanely steep. I could feel my hamstrings pulling when I'm climbing the streets (and where there's no stairs). It's safe to say that most roads in that area have a slope of 30-45 degrees.
Seriously, everywhere I turn, there's a 7-11/ Sasa/ Manning ('Guardian' for fellow Malaysians. I have no idea why they have different names in Hong Kong when they're the same chain)/ Watson's/ Maxim (美心 bakery, it's huge in Hong Kong)/ 惠康 (a chain mart). It's like they are fillers for rows of shops. But then again, they do make shopping in Hong Kong a helluva easy time.
My bro says this is an old police station building. It's been abandoned for many years now, which is pretty unusual as Hong Kong land is so expensive.
As soon as you step out of the Central MTR station (notice the asterisk * sign at the top right corner), you will step into a street almost untouched by time. Apparently, this is the only street left in Central where old stalls still stand.
Seriously, this guy is the last of his profession in Central (or so my bro tells me).
Hong Kong's public transport system is so efficient that most people need not buy a car (or couldn't afford to buy one :-/). Here we have the 小巴 (16-seater bus), the double decker, and the tram, which I can't believe is still running in this century. I guess I've been living under a rock for a very long time. I'm pretty sure there's a photo of a taxi cab somewhere in my photo folder, but I'm too lazy to wade through.
My bro took my parents and I on a walk from his apartment down to Central, which is a pretty long walk, but too interesting to be tired from. We walked past many attractions which I'm sure many people have seen from TVB series.
This is the 汇丰总行大厦(HSBC Building)...
...which is located in the 皇后像广场 (Statue Square). You know, the place where a lot of Filipino maids hang out on Sundays. We see it all the time in Hong Kong series. That day's a Saturday. Check out the few Filipinos hanging out in the background. My sis-in-law said they went there on a Sunday once, and it felt like they got transported to the Philipines unknowingly. It was surreal.
And also the 立法会大楼 （Legislative Council Building) has been standing here, since 1912. See the goddess of justice in the bottom right corner? That is so fricking cool!
And so are these -- rows of perfectly undamaged phone booths dotting the streets (an unusual and
very rare sight in Malaysia--stress is on
undamaged). Got the impression they were sound-proof from Hong Kong series, but turns out I could still hear my mom laughing at me when she found out I had snuck inside one of them, just for the experience.
This is a favorite scene of mine too -- Hong Kong newspaper stand! Nice and neat and offers 18-SX in the open too.
It's amazing how the Hongkies find ways to work around problems, namely the lack of land to build upon, and lo and behold! here comes a triangular-shaped building.
It's GREEN!!
Hong Kong's own Starbucks chain -- Pacific Coffee Company. My bro says their business is pretty good.
Demon Dog! Not. I accidentally had the flash on when I took the picture. Sorry about that, lil' doggie. I wish I could bring my pets out shopping in Malaysia :-/. Have I mention how cute the dogs are in Hong Kong? Every one of them (at least, every one that I saw there) was healthy and happy. Big dogs such as this retriever are pretty rare. They prefer smaller breeds because of lack of house space.
Going back home. Enjoying the view up the escalator.
Remember the mosque near my bro's house? This is it from up close. There are more Muslims around the area, naturally. In fact, the mid-levels are where most foreigners are staying, so it's not really surprising.
A great name to go with the street :)
Back home, we're preparing to celebrate Zen-E's birthday! Yes, he's already 1 year old! He hates the hat though :)
With a few hours to spare, I've decided to ditch my parents (:p) and went on a hike on my own. I had no idea how packed Hong Kong was until I discovered a lot of tourist attractions within walking distance.
For instance, Victoria Prison is just minutes of walking from Central. Built in 1841, I heard it's currently deserted, having relocated to somewhere else. This is the side door where released inmates step back into the real world.
Pretty ominous looking building.
Stumbled upon a local wet market. People were frantic with preparing dinner, I guess. I don't think our Malaysian wet market opens till late afternoon (it was 4 pm).
See the stairs? This is yet another famous street called Pottinger Street (砵甸乍街，also called石板街by the locals). It's a long flight of stone steps with stalls on both sides selling a lot of street merchandise. I was standing at the middle part with a road dividing the street apart.
This is the other section of the road. It was a short street, but interesting nonetheless because of different varieties of trinkets sold there. Anything from buttons to goods from mainland China.
In the year 1996, the Hong Kong government set up a Sun Yat-Sen history trail along places that the founding father of China visited and made history in. Though the old buildings were demolished to make way for new development, the signposts serve to remind us of his contributions. There is a Sun Yat-Sen Museum, but sadly I did not have the time to visit it.
Do you know how big a Hong Kong typical park is? It's this big. Serious. I was standing at one end and took a picture of the whole park. That's how big they usually are. A few trees, two bench and a children's slide and they call it a park.
Small though they may be, they are clean and undamaged (compare this to our Malaysian playgrounds).
Hollywood Road (好莱坞道), also known as Antiques Street (古董街）. This is where people come to buy, what else, antiques. I've noticed a few art galleries along the street too. It's pretty quiet when I was there, probably 'cause it gives off a 'regal and expensive' sorta vibe.
Just beside Hollywood Road is the old 文武庙(Man Mou Temple). It's one of the oldest and most well-known temple in Hong Kong. 文 (Literacy) refers to 文昌帝君 (Emperor Wen Chang), who symbolises success and position; 武 (Martial) refers to 关圣武帝, who symbolises honor and wealth.
It's well-maintained, even if it's already a few hundred years old. The moment I stepped into the temple, I find myself surrounded by the smoke from hundreds of burning incense and joss-sticks in the temple. I couldn't take a picture in the building itself, as they have rules for that. But imagine if you will, a closed-in building with nary a light and countless joss-sticks smoking up the place (it's a very popular temple with the devotees). Everything in the temple just screams "History!"
When I did step out of the temple, I found myself covered in ashes from the burnt hanging incense dotting the ceiling. Incredible place. I wouldn't mind returning again in the future, just to have a good look at the historic carvings and maybe have my fortune told (it was near closing time when I got there).
Ugh, staircases and staircases everywhere! I could practically feel my muscles growing as I had my little walk around the area. This picture here is just one of them.
I reached home at 6:30 pm, as promised, and we all got ready for dinner.
We celebrated Zen-E's one-year-old birthday in an upscale restaurant in Causeway Bay (铜锣湾）called 翠园．Delicious food and very chinese people environment (you know, the talking, the babies screaming, the clink-clanking of utensils, the clashes of mahjong tiles...oh the last one is only commonplace in Hong Kong. I wish I could join in too).
We had Peking Duck (first time I ever had one), crab fried rice, abalone with duck's feet etc. The food is good, albeit very pricey. It's lucky to have a brother who would pay for everything (muahaha).
Zen-E eyeing his cake intently. He might not know what it's for but I bet he thinks it's tempting to poke a finger into it. Happy Birthday, lil' nephew!
9 pm, we finished dinner and had a walk around Causeway Bay. Downtowns in Hong Kong all look the same eventually -- all brightly-lit and squeezing with people. This picture here is a guy break-dancing. Apparently they were promoting their dance school.
I had a get-together with Say Tar planned that night. So just 15 minutes later I ditched my family (don't I just love the word!) and went on the MTR for the first time, on my own. It was so easy with the Octopus Card (Touch 'n Go sorta card), I had no trouble following the crowds and reaching my destiny at all (and I get lost easily). The PA system announces the next station, while LED lights show up on the map panel, and indicate which side of the door will open.
What's interesting about MTR and its passenger is the efficiency everything runs on. People just seem to walk faster, the escalator moves faster, and the trains are on schedule. I'm in awe. This is how a public transport system is supposed to work, take the cue, fellow Malaysians (who are working in the field).
9:30 pm, I met up with Say Tar. We were on our way to a good pub for our night out at Lan Kwai Fong when we bump into a crowd of people singing Michael Jackson songs as a memorial service to the man. RIP, Michael.
The area is dotted with rows and rows of pubs, with loud music and enticing lights welcoming us. With much deliberation, this is the bar we finally settled on, la Dolce Vita 97. Pretty decent pub, with a non-stop flow of patrons.
When we were in Lan Kwai Fong, it was like we were NOT in Hong Kong anymore. Most of the patrons (drunk or not) happened to be foreigners. Most were even friendly enough to cheer with us on the streets. If you're hoping to meet with Hong Kong stars, this is NOT the place to be at. Wait, let me rephrase that. Do NOT hope to casually meet with stars in Lan Kwai Fong, 'cause they're most probably partying in private pubs which are hidden from the eyes of us unworthy folks OR at that two new hip places in Kowloon (棉登径 & 诺士佛台), which is like a second Lan Kwai Fong, only with more Hongkies.
After our drinks, we took a walk around the area, partly to find the MTR (on Say Tar's part) and partly to 'bump' into celebrities (on my part). I was pleasantly surprised to reached this building, which I passed by several times on taxi. Called The Hong Kong Fringe Club (艺穗会）, it was built in 1913 as a cold storage for dairy products. That was a time before fridges were common household appliance. Nowadays it hosts art exhibition and small stage performances.
It was nearing midnight, and as we walked away from Lan Kwai Fong area, the people got sparser, but unlike here in Malaysia, we felt completely safe. Crime rate is very low here, thanks to the diligence of the Hong Kong police. After parting ways at the outdoor escalator, I walked back up the slopes (with the help of the escalator someways too, of course), and was amused to think that the only thing that had me worrying there and then were ghosts (it was the seventh lunar month) and not robbers.
After a nice shower and an hour of Hong Kong TV, it was goodnight Hong Kong, day three.
Man, this 带子肠粉 (Scallop in a starchy skin-like thing made of rice powder) is so tasty, it's just like what I had in Ipoh (you should know Ipoh 肠粉 is like the best there is!)
Hehe, just to spite people because my dad, bro and sis-in-law loves me :D
No idea what this is.
Just up ahead from the Flower Market Road, is the Bird Garden...
...which is a closed-in garden for bird-lovers to gather and show-off or sell their birds and other goods. I think it's due to the avian flu scare that had the Hong Kong government walling the area in.
A lot of singing birds can be found here, but as it was nearing dusk, I'd imagine the number had more or less dwindled.
Well, that's that. Off we go to an air-conditioned place. Beautiful poster by the way.
And to think Kowloon District used to be the dirtiest district in old Hong Kong, in every aspect. Now, while it isn't the cleanest, it certainly is better than the early days.
5 pm. Our next destination: Royal Plaza Shopping Complex (太子购物中心).
With an exorbitant parking fee too. Not to worry, the only people driving cars in Hong Kong are rich people, they can afford it.
Another street that looks just like any other Hong Kong street, the night streets of Mong Kok. Walking through it now, it's a bit hard to imagine it was once a street crawling with Hong Kong triad members and people of other shady professions.
I couldn't stop giggling. My mom too. Makes me wanna have some watercress (西洋菜) right there and then!
7 pm. Still remember the IFC? The tallest building in Hong Kong?
