Friday, May 21, 2010

Singapore

Date: 30/4/10 - 4/5/10

A lot of people have told me that Singapore is a boring place to stay. How boring, I ask? It's a small country, they told me. There's not much to see and do.

A senior enjoying a game of croquet in a park.

They're probably right, if we're talking about living there for a long period of time. But then again, Singapore is a hub of excitement, with many concerts by international artistes and various world-class exhibitions held throughout the year. If I were living there, I would have my schedule fully-packed month after month.

Singapore is not boring. You just have to know the right places to be.

As a matter of fact, the last time I've visited the country was years ago, when I was still in primary school, if I am not mistaken. The only things I can remember from that trip was sitting on a tram, peering my eyes into darkness in Night Safari Park; visiting Sentosa Island; and having pigeon soup. I was young, I had no idea what the country was like. It was only after more than ten years that I visited the country once more, to fully comprehend the conflicting enigma that is Singapore.

Singapore. The country that is so small, you can't even see it on a world map, lies beyond a small river from us. Oh right, it's technically a strait. But the size would have fooled me. Travelling from the Malaysian Customs, across a short bridge, and reaching the Singapore customs was faster than I anticipated, and we (I was travelling with a friend of mine) were lucky we missed the peak period, which is essentially when people travel between both countries after work (mostly Malaysian returning from Singapore). I hear the jam could take hours.

Travelling by Aeroline. Ticket price may varied. Ours was RM 150 for a round trip.

I think I'll start off with Singapore food, because that was what greeted us first after we reached the country. Fellow Malaysians have also told me, Singapore food tastes far inferior to Malaysian food. I think they're being a bit judgmental, because to me, the tastiness of the food is proportional to the price. I've had hawker fare, ranging from $ 2.50 to $ 5.50, which truly tastes terrible if compared to our food here; I've also had middle-range food, which is food from franchised- or chained-stores, which definitely tastes better than the food served from the restaurants with the same name here; and I've had food from high-end restaurants, which tastes absolutely delicious. From what I've discovered, the ingredients are fresher, especially seafood. However, I still don't understand why hawker food tastes that boring. You'd think they would taste better since they're using better ingredients. My only guess is that they make dull sauces.

Singapore definitely has a well-thought out transport route. I love how the whole city is connected whether by MRT or bus, and every attraction is easily accessible. The fare is paid via an EZY-link card, which is basically like our Touch-n-go card or Hong Kong's Octopus Card. A new system is set to fully run by July, where the fare is determined by the distance travelled. We thought it was a wonderful system, until a Singaporean lady happened to rant about the ways the company had cheated them by overcharging each trip without people's notice.

The same can't be said about Singapore drivers. Sure, they don't have to deal with traffic jams like we do here, but the high price of buying and maintaining a car, and a general lack of parking space is the main reason why people who drive a car in Singapore is most likely rich people, as is the same with Hongkies.

People drive nice cars here. Oh look, lots of greenery.

Urban development in Singapore, on the other hand, is wonderful. The government has allocated adequate land for community buildings and parks, and while the country is small, there are still a lot of green parts around. I like to tell people that every picture I take of the country, there would be at least a tree in it. I'm guessing Singapore is a wonderful place to be for architects, with all the weird and wonderful-looking buildings sprouting up especially in the city centre. I was fortunate enough to have a friend that is like a little brother to me leading me around parts of the city, while explaining the history and stories of the buildings. He led me through Clarke Quay, which was a historic site and now a famous tourist spot, and right through the CBD of Singapore, with its modern skyscrapers dotting the skyline, and then to Bugis Street, which is like Malaysia's Petaling Street, selling cheap, imitative bags and other clothing articles. Thanks Ke Yang!

The weird and wonderful Helix Bridge of Marina Bay.

The CBD of Singapore.

The Esplanade Theatres.

Clarke Quay.

The weird and wonderful statues along Clarke Quay.

The Gateway by world-renowned architect I.M.Pei.

It's actually an optical illusion.

An apartment with rooftop garden.

What I find interesting about Singapore is that they tend to install air-conditioning in almost every building. To think, Petaling Street is literally a street, with people breathing in poisonous fumes from cars that zoom past by mere centimetres. It was not until recently that our government thought to install rooftops and reroute the traffic in the area for the convenience of tourists. Bugis Street, however, is more like a huge building, with air-conditioning blasting off on full-power, and the only traffic is made up of people. To me, it felt more like a low-range shopping complex.

I must mention their hawker food centre. It's nothing like what we have here, namely shops with stalls. It's more like a food court, with air-conditioning. And with bland food. But if your wallet feels light, it's an option. At least they serve clean food.

Talking about urban development, I find Orchard Road an interesting concept. It's basically a long stretch of road with more than ten (and the number is still growing) shopping complexes on both sides. I may be missing something here, but I found myself thinking, what is the fricking reason to have a dozen identical shopping malls placed next to each other? Orchard Road is the place to shop for high-range merchandises, but I cannot fathom the reason for having several Louis Vuitton (or any other brand-name) stores separated with only a few hundred metres apart. Anyone?

Underpasses can be found almost anywhere.

I'm neither rich nor a shopaholic, so the walk along the road was a bit boring. Granted, there were a few stores that piqued my interest very much, and I wish they would consider opening a store here in Malaysia soon. When can we see a Muji store here soon, pretty please?

I also visited the National Library of Singapore. My architect-to-be friend mentioned that the trend now is towards green buildings, and the library building is one such fascinating example. It has automated blinds, greenery outside of the building, and a few other energy-saving features, and which is why it was conferred the platinum Green Mark Award in 2005. The building itself is impressive, with many floors of books available for reading. The lower ground floor alone would have taken me years to finish reading all the magazines, newspapers and comic books (this is the part where I squeal with delight). I find myself ranting to my friend, this is how a national library should be! Easily accessible, with more books than you could ever wish for in a lifetime that you can borrow and read. The National Library of Malaysia is located in an obscure part of KL, where some folks don't even know the exact location. It's actually situated right beside the National Art Gallery and Istana Budaya, the national theatre. But then again, if the urban development ministry folks arranged for them to be located outside of bus routes, I can't imagine how that would promote healthy reading habits and love of culture for our citizens.


Let me digress for a while. Let's say the average worker's salary is $ 2000 a month. The average food costs $ 10. The average clothing is priced at $ 20. Children's book sells for $ 30. For a Malaysian, the average salary is RM 2000 a month. The average food costs RM 20. The average clothing is priced at RM 40. Children's book sells for RM 60. And my favorite comparison would be a MacBook Pro. A Singaporean need only a month and a half's pay to get one, whereas a Malaysian needs to earn three months's worth of pay to buy the same laptop. It's crazy how Malaysians have to pay a higher cost of living.

But then again, a lady we met during our bus ride home was pretty disgruntled by her government. Singaporeans are required to pay a very high income tax rate, and the lady also complaint about high school fees, $300-$400 a month (not sure what kind of school she was referring to though). She also said something about children not safe at night and needs to be home by 9pm, which me and my friend couldn't help but raise an eyebrow as the general safety of Malaysia is so much worse. We couldn't even feel safe during the day, in our house.

People will never be contend. We would always want to have better things.

Let's talk about lighter things. I had a lot of fun in Singapore Zoo. It's so nice that the zoo is almost covered in greenery. Not only is it a great shade from the sun, it helped too during our visit because it rained. The leaves created a canopy so we didn't need to hold our umbrella the whole time. My friend commented that the animals are bigger in Perth Zoo, but for me it was a terrific zoo, mostly because of the abundant of greenery and that they kept the animals in an open area as opposed to a cage. Of course, a moat is a moat and an island is an island, but it's far better than being cooped up in metal bars.


What's not to love about Singapore? It's vibrant, it's modern, and it's exciting. People who have lived there for years may disagree with me, but I wouldn't mind visiting it again soon.

Friday, March 12, 2010

Ipoh

Date: 27 Feb 2010
Place: Ipoh

7:00 am Had a bit of trouble waking up since I slept at two in morning (stupid me doing last minute research on the town). But what irked me most was losing a contact lens in the toilet (and it hasn't been found yet).

3 (No, I only have two eyes) pieces of contact lenses: RM 21

8:20 am This is supposed to read "8:00 am". Stupid contact lens. On our way to Ipoh!

Ipoh Selatan toll fee: RM 26.50
Petrol: RM 60

10:45 am Took us long enough to finally reach Ipoh town centre. After a not-too-long-not-too-short search, we stumbled upon Nam Heong Kopitiam (南香), one of the oldest kopitiams in the area. What better way to start the morning (of course, you could argue it's near noon...) with a cup of Ipoh White Coffee (yes, it warrants the caps lock).
To put it simply:
White Coffee (1 hot, 1 iced), good. Personally liked the iced one better. RM 2.70

Hor Fun, okay, me and Myen both thought. I liked the soup. RM 3.50

Penang Char Kuey Teow, wonderful! RM 3.50

Dim Sum (fried yam), okay. As we say in chinese, Myen's arse itched, so he ordered one. For a small thing, the price can kill. RM 1.40
Whole day parking ticket RM 4.00

11:15 am So here's a heart-lifting story, proof that there are still good Samaritans among us. Earlier when I got off the car, I heard a 'thud' coming from inside the car. I tried to look for the cause but found nothing, and I blissfully walked away. Then at Nam Heong, I found my camera missing. A RM 1500 camera, missing. Thinking it might still be in the car, I stayed at my seat, and the photos above were taken with my phone camera.

Later when we went back to the car, we still couldn't find it. Then two Indian guys came upon us and asked if we were missing something. They teased me a bit, and finally, to my relieved, revealed that one of them saw the camera on the ground and kept it safely for me. He promptly returned it to me, and waved goodbye to us.

Imagine that happening in Kuala Lumpur.

Much later I got the Indian a small token of appreciation, and returned to the shop to give it to him. He was blushing and all (so was I!) and it was really just a very amazing incident to brighten up the rest of the day.

But I digress.

12 noon Do you know I love temples? I do. And I love it when they're all in a row for me in Ipoh. At least 4 in a row! LingSen Tong (灵仙岩)...

SamPoh Tong (三宝洞)...
NanTien Tong (南天洞)...

and a Tibetan Temple.


The three Chinese temples are built into the limestone mountains, and they're very old and very cool (temperature and the architecture-wise) inside.

Let me show you what I mean!

Enter NanTien Tong and you'll come to some stone stairs. They lead out to the great outdoors, and another set of incredibly steep stairs.
Reach the top and you'll see a large cavern, which houses another set of stairs.
Climb the stairs, and I have no idea where it leads to, since the wooden stairs are creaky and wobbly and the place so dark that timid ol' me didn't have the guts to continue on. The whole place felt like old mine shafts that could crumble anytime.
Returning back to the gates, we saw the other tenants living in the same area. There are signs warning tourists not to feed the monkeys.
At Sam Poh Tong, there is an amazing tunnel...
...leading to this beautiful closed-in area that is just like the place of the gods in old Chinese folklore (仙境). This is just awesome. However, the building is not open for tourists.
The tortoises here grow to large sizes.

This building is located near the toilets outside.
It was hot. The sun was scorching, and we didn't have a water bottle on us. A coconut juice stall just beside the road is like nectar, only it's not. It's not sweet, and it's a total rip-off. RM 1.30

1:30 pm I got hungry, much to Myen's astonishment. I have strong gastric juice. He whined about Yong Tau Fu located on Jalan King, and we had hell of a time looking for it. Actually the search was fun, even when we were running around on streets that all seemed the same. It was truly through pure luck that we stumbled upon the right place. I kid you not. One minute we were wondering where we were, the next minute the street post ahead of us sounded familiar...We laughed so hard to recognize that we finally found the place.

忠记鱼旦, one of the stalls under these big trees, had the longest queue. Is it really that good?

Turned out, it was only so-so. Okay, the meat in the Yong Tau Fus did taste good, and Myen says the Yau Char Kwai is really good, but it's not that memorable. Over-hyped? Perhaps. But the long queue tells another story, I guess. RM6.30
This mixed fruit blended ice, on the other hand, is delicious! It's choked full of fruits (watermelon, mango, dragonfruit, jackfruit, pineapple, papaya , lychee and a slice of lemon) and it's cool! And sweet, of lychee flavour! Quite expensive, but we loved it! RM 3.50
3:00 pm Just beside Jalan King is Jalan Queen (we saw a Jalan Prince nearby as well) which we found the muah chee (glutinous cake with blended peanuts) stall we read online, Hong Kee (芳记). True to the review, it was sweet but not too much, and the best part is it doesn't stick to my teeth! I hate the muah chees sold here in KL. They tend to stick to every part of my mouth. And the peanut! They were fragrant and fine! A bit expensive, but totally worth the enjoyment. RM 2.00

3:10 pm Heading back to town centre to look for the kind Indian proved to be a hard search. Took us a while but in the end we found him and gave him the small trinket we bought for him. Later we stopped for a box of salted chicken (盐 火局 鸡) RM 16.00 and some pomelos (2 medium 2 small) (柚子), RM 27.00.

Funny thing about the chicken is, you don't even have to get off your car. From afar, one the shop assistants locked eyes with Myen, and lifted a hand and showed one or four fingers at intervals. As I'm often slow in understanding, Myen was the first to show one finger to the guy. I didn't even understand what was happening. The guy promptly ran back to the shop and grabbed a box of the chicken and then ran over. All we need to do was roll down the window and gave him the money. Now this is what we call service!

I've always loved the chicken. Everytime we come to Ipoh, we would buy at least a box. My most favorite memory is buying a box to eat in the cool air of Cameron Highlands (only an hour's drive away).

4:30 pm It's true about what they say of the water in Ipoh making the food there tasty. No one comes to Ipoh and not have a taste of taufu fah or soya bean drink. This is the most famous stall of them all.

It may not look flashy, but the kind uncle here has been working for as long as I can remember, and his taufu fah and soya drink is terrific! I like his black bean taufu fah better, as I think the sweetness is more subdued, but only the original soy bean version is available that day. I opted for a soya drink while Myen clamoured for the cendol. ABC and cendol were new on the menu, maybe because he hired a Malay kakak to help out at the stall. Last I was there, it was run by his son. The kakak said his sons left for Kuala Lumpur to work.

Cendol, Myen says is the best he has ever had. I don't know much, but I do know he likes cendols very much and has had enough bowls of them to give out this comment. He says the ice is very fine, and the taste is superb.


I still like the soya bean drink. I'm not a good food reviewer so I'll just say it's refreshing and good and a total waste if you missed it. Total RM 2.60

The cute tauke and kakak of the soya bean stall.
5:00 pm I would have loved to visit Kellie's Castle just 20 minutes away before going home. But it was getting late, so here's hoping for another visit to Ipoh soon. I still haven't had chee cheong fun and dim sum that Ipoh is also famous for.

Ipoh Selatan toll fee: RM 26.50

I suck at maths, so I'm not gonna add up the total. Suffice to say it's a very reasonable budget for a one day trip that is both exciting and satisfying.